Wednesday, August 27, 2008
Basic Fly Casting
I must admit I learn best by watching other people, which makes me pretty lucky I guess. With the Internet I can watch how to tie a knot, cast a fly, bait a hook etc. and this makes learning new things very easy.
The following is the video I used to help me learn the basic fly casting technique. Remember that youtube has hundreds of videos like this so take a look through, have a practice and find a technique that works for you.
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
How To Roll Cast - Fly Fishing (with video)
The roll cast is used when obstacles, such as trees, rocks or other anglers, block the angler from making a normal back cast. This situation arises quite frequently (especially on smaller rivers) and the roll cast is a must for all fly anglers to learn.
How to perform a roll cast
Fortunately the roll cast is not as advanced as many new anglers believe. Actually a roll cast is simply an overhand cast with different timing! This video shows the technique for the roll cast in good detail and is very easy to follow. After watching this video I suggest heading down to your local park to practice this technique.
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Lefty's Loop Knot (Kreh Loop Knot)
The lefty loop knot is one of the most popular fly fishing knots when connecting a fly. The loop gives the fly the ability to move more naturally. The knot can also be used when trying lures onto regular tackle and it is one of my favorite knots!
For detailed instructions on this great knot visit the instructions page
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
How to fly fish for steelhead
How to fly fish for steelhead
Steelhead are a difficult fish to catch and that is what makes them so special. They can be hard to find, finicky at certain times and down right frustrating. There are many "steelhead anglers" who have actually never caught a steelhead, and this fact alone is a testament to their appeal. Even though I have been lucky enough to catch one or two on a trip to the southern parts of Australia I am, by no means, an expert on the topic. So I went about finding the best articles from the web for you to read.
Steelhead Articles
Article 1
Article 2
Article 3 - This whole site is gold for any steelhead angler!
I hope this helps!
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
How to fish a river

It would be hard to find something more relaxing than walking along, in or sitting on the bank of a river casting a fly, lure or bait. While all rivers require slightly different fishing techniques there are many techniques that will remain the same.
How to fish a river
Whenever you are fishing it pays to think like a fish and this is no different when fishing a river. Remember that the food will be flowing past the fish very quickly and they will not have much time to decide whether to eat it or not. Whether you are fishing with bait, lure or fly remember to make your presentations look as close as possible to the natural food sources in the river. Sometimes fish will prospect with their mouth (they don't have hands after all) eating everything that flows past, they swallow the food and spit out the rest. When the fish are in this mood you will need to be aware of any indications of a bite and strike early. When the fish are not feeding you can try to annoy them into biting with repetitive casts over the same area.
Upstream or downstream
You can fish upstream and move downstream or downstream and move upstream and your choice will probably depend on the river you are fishing. Talk to local anglers and tackle shops for a bit of advice or just sit and watch some of the locals for a while. It also pays to learn and remember the following fly fishing ettiquette rules for upstream and downstream fishing:
- If a pool is being fished downstream by wetfly anglers, start upstream of them.
- If a pool is being fished upstream by nymph anglers, start downstream of them.
- Start your angling in the opposite direction.
- Don't start fishing a pool downstream when someone else is fishing it upstream
- Don't start fishing a pool upstream when someone else is fishing it downstream
- If in doubt, ask where to fish so as not to cause a disturbance.
Nothing spoils a relaxing day like someone having a go at you for doing something wrong. Unfortunately not everyone is patient with new anglers so it is worth learning the following river etiquette tips to avoid this kind of trouble:
- Respect other anglers already on the water.
- Enquire politely about their plans.
- At stream mouths, join a line of anglers at the end unless there is a large gap.
- Ask if it's okay to join an already occupied pool.
- If a pool is full, wait on the bank or move somewhere else.
- If you join others fishing a pool, don't fish the water someone is just about to fish.
- Do not monopolise a stretch of water, even if you're catching fish there.
- Move upstream or downstream with every few casts unless you are alone.
- When sharing a pool, accepted practice is to take a step every time you cast.
- Leave plenty of room for your neighbour to cast, and to play and reel in a hooked fish.
- Do not fill a gap left by an angler landing a fish - let them return.
- If other anglers offend through inexperience, have a gentle word with them
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
How to cast a fly rod (with video)
How to cast a fly rod
The Overhand cast (back cast)
The overhand cast is the basic fly fishing cast. It is used to pick your fly line up off the water and reposition your fly on a different target.
The Roll Cast
The roll cast is useful when obstacles behind an angler prevent a normal backcast. This instructional video shows the roll cast:
Fly fishing casting guides and resources
Basic casting technique
Roll Cast
Overhand Cast
There are many more advanced casting techniques and tips that you may want to eventually learn, but this information should help get you started in the wonderful world of fly fishing!
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Fly fishing England
Target species
There are two main fly fishing targets in England, trout and grayling, but there are many other available fly fishing targets that are less popular. There are some traditional non fly targets too that are waiting for someone to catch on a fly.
Fishing techniques
Many fishing locations in England consist of small streams and lakes and while these are idyllic locations they can be a little bit tricky to fish. Remember that on small streams you wont need to make very long casts and you may need to use a shorter back cast on very narrow rivers. Another important factor to consider is that the water is very clear, which will require a stealth approach of quiet observation and stalking the fish. Fly fishing techniques like upstream dry fly and upstream nymph are the most popular and "matching the hatch" is an essential skill.
Things to consider
Remember that in England most fishing locations require a permit or a landowners permission. There are actually many complex rules for fishing in the UK, which you should research first. You will be surprised by the lack of free fishing areas, but you will still be able to find these areas with a bit of research. Like in any new locations hiring a quality guide can make all the difference to your fishing success. A fishing guide will also be able to advise you of required permits or may even include the permits in their fee.
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Fly fishing knot tying
When tying knots for fly fishing you will find that it requires approximately 5 knots. First you need to attach the backing line to the reel, then the backing line to the fly line, the fly line to the leader and the leader to the tippet. The final knot is used to attach the fly to the tippet.
Backing line to reel - Arbor knot
Most fly anglers use the arbor knot for this application as it is easy to tie and strong enough for this application.
An instructional video of this knot can be found at my earlier post how to tie an arbor knot.
Backing line to fly line - Albright Knot
This knot is often used to attach two lines of different diameters and is perfect for attaching fly line to the backing material.
1. Loop the heavier line. Pass the lighter line around the formed loop. 2. Make approximately 10 wraps with the lighter line wrapping from left to right. Hold these wraps in place. On the 10th wrap, come around and then through the remaining loop. Taking the standing line in your right hand pull gently as you push the wraps with your left hand towards the closed loop, keeping the wraps together. Pull the tag tight then pull on the standing part of both lines until the knot is secure.
3. Trim the tag ends of the knot.
Fly Line to leader - Nail Knot
Some fly anglers continue to use the albright knot for this situation, but I find the nail knot to have a smoother finish - try both and see what works best for you.
An instructional video of this knot can be found at my earlier post how to tie a nail knot.
Leader to tippet - Surgeons Knot
This knot is very easy and quick to tie, but is also sufficiently strong in this situation.
Instructions (with diagrams) for the surgeons knot can be found at my earlier post how to tie a surgeons knot.
Tippet to fly - Improved clinch knot (locked blood knot)
The last knot you will tie and arguably the most important. Most anglers use an improved clinch knot in this situation and it is a great knot for this situation. Remember that you will be using this knot the most and it is the most important to learn properly.
You will find instructions for the improved clinch knot at my earlier post how to tie an improved clinch knot.
I hope this little post helps you with your fly fishing knot tying and your fly fishing in general! Good luck!
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Fly fishing rod weights
1 - 3 weight
- small flies
- short casts
- small to medium trout
- small to medium flies
- short to medium casts
- excellent all around trout rod.
- Handles small to larger flies
- short to longer casts
- long casts and windy conditions.
- 7 weight is a great compromise sized rod for trout and light saltwater
- large freshwater fish
- salt water fishing
- large flies
- long casts in open areas.
Choosing a fly fishing rod
Choosing a fly rod to match your required fishing situation/s can be difficult at times, but there are some questions you can answer to make the decision easier.
What type of fly fishing will you be doing?
No one is going to argue with me when I tell them that a trout doesn't quite match the fight of a marlin or even a tuna. Before purchasing a fly rod think about what kind of fishing you will be doing with it the majority of the time. Whether it is saltwater, freshwater, maybe even a bit of both you will be able to find the rod that suits you for most situations. If you want to catch trout, but would also like to do some light saltwater sports fishing you can make a compromise by choosing an all-rounder rod instead of a specialist rod. If you plan on doing some very different fishing (eg. trout then marlin) you will need two different fly fishing rods.
What type of action do I need?
I will try to keep this simple
Slow action fly rod (full flex)
- Great for smaller fish and smaller rivers
- Enhances the fight of even the smallest trout
- Designed for short casts
- Good all round rod type for many different situations
- Make longer casts
- Additional strength in the rod for fighting the fish
- Stiff - lots of fighting power
- Allows really long casts in any conditions
- Easier to cast (due to the stiffness)
- Generally not used for trout, but for saltwater fly fishing
Fiberglass - has some fans
- cheap
- heavier
- strong
- light
- strong
- easy to cast
- more expensive
- heaviest
- expensive
- handling and feeling is amazing
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
Choosing the right fly line - tackle tips
Matching the rod and line weight is a key feature of a balanced fly fishing system and the foundation of good casting. Casting power comes from the relationship of line to rod. When you pick up the line from the water, the line "loads" the rod by adding enough weight to flex it fully. Then, with a properly timed cast, the flexed rod straightens out, driving the line foreword.
Line taper
To help you cast more efficiently most fly lines are tapered. This taper varies in weight, diameter and thickness over the length of the line.
There are five main types of taper, each to meet a specific purpose
Weight-forward (WF) taper
These are the most popular and the best choice if you are a beginner
The first 30 feet or so of line is heavier because of its tapered front end
The rest of the line is thinner and is known as the running line
The weight-forward line helps with long casts and better precision even in windy conditions
Bass bug/saltwater (BBT) taper
This taper is much like the weight-forward design except that the front section does not run as long
This design helps with heavier flies, hence its use for catching feisty bass or bigger saltwater fish
Double taper (DT)
DT fly lines are preferred by seasoned fly anglers
These lines work especially well in making delicate presentations on small- to medium-size rives since the belly is at the center, with both ends gradually tapering
This makes the line highly economical too because when one end wears out, you can turn the line around and use the other end
This line won't cast as far or provide as much wind resistance as a weight-forward line
Shooting taper (ST)
ST lines cast farther than other lines so they are designed for fast-running rivers and in extreme wind conditions. The line portion (front section) is stout and short to form a casting loop.
Most anglers attach a shooting line on the running line using monofilament, braided line or a very fine diameter fly line
Level (L) taper
These lines are uniform in diameter throughout, making them the most economical
If you are a beginner don't try to save money this way. Level taper lines are the most difficult to cast so they really are best used by seasoned veterans, primarily for fly fishing with live bait.
Density
Floating (F) lines
These do as they say--they float on the water's surface
Floating lines are good for beginners since they are easier to cast and handle
Floating lines also are a must for dry flies, but they can also work with wet flies, nymphs and streamers that are fished several feet below the surface
Intermediate (I) lines
These are a little denser than water so they sink slowly to present a fly just below the water's surface
These lines work well in shallow, weedy lakes and in choppy waters where you want your line to stay below the choppiness
Sinking (S) lines
These lines do the opposite of floating lines--they sink
They are designed for deep lakes and deep, fast-flowing rivers
Some manufacturers also put a Roman numeral after the S to show how fast their line sinks in inches per second. For example, an S II line sinks about two inches per second
These lines are best for wet flies, nymphs and streamers at a constant depth
Floating/Sinking (F/S) lines
These combine the two characteristics--the five foot-- to twenty foot tip or front portion sinks to present the bait while the balance of line floats on the water
Manufacturers display the depth and speed that the front part of the line sinks
This floating/sinking line gets your fly down while helping you maintain control, so it's good for fish such as salmon.
sourced from www.troutlet.com
Sunday, January 6, 2008
Caring for fly line
Fly lines always benefit from a few moments of care that will not only improve their longevity but increase their performance too.
- Always clean your line with conditioner - every trip
- Always stretch your line before use
- Always examine your rod guides for cracks
- Always match your rod to your line AFTMA (weight rating)
- Always store your line in loose coils
- Always store your line away from heat and light
Saturday, December 29, 2007
Fly Fishing Tips - Woolly Bugger Lure
Uses
Woolly Buggers imitate lots of different trout food:
- dragonfly nymphs,
- damselfly nymphs,
- leeches,
- baitfish,
- Anything that might be alive and edible.
If you fish lakes, you should have lots of these in your box, with a mix of colors and sizes. They can also be effective in rivers.
How to Fish
Count-down-and-retrieve or slow retrieve. Vary the retrieve until you find what works best at the moment: slow and steady, fast, strip-and-pause, or quick, short two-inch strips. Also, wind-drifting works well in lakes.
Fish at all depths until you find the right one, but most of the time you should be fishing somewhere between two to six feet deep.
Video Tips
Sunday, December 23, 2007
Fly Fishing: Fishing Cartoon
Thursday, December 13, 2007
Fly Fishing Tips - Fishing the Flats
The flats are the shallow margins of the sea, fertile places where fish come in to feed, or cross over on their way to deeper water and other feeding grounds. The flats are significant for fly fishermen because much of the fishing involved on them is sight fishing and because of the tackle you can use on them. Fly fishing does have some limitations and the flats, apart from presenting you with many challenges, is the place where some of those limitations are the least apparent. Flats are found right around the country and can vary from offshore sandcays to gently sloping beaches. Flats species can be as varied as where we live - bream, and flathead are just two in the south and in the tropics they can range from longtail tuna to barra and permit. Where ever the flats you plan to fish are, there are some fundamental principle to successfully fishing them.
Most fish in shallow water are going to be shy and you have to see them before they see you- Polarised sunglasses are essential. Everyone has their favourite colour and brand and I prefer glasses in the red end of the spectrum - copper and tan are excellent. For me these provide the strongest contrast between the fish and the bottom and remove the blue light of the sky. Clear blue sunny days are obviously the best. I've used many different sunnies over the years, but the Aussie made Stalkers, are the best glasses I've ever used. A broad brimmed hat that shuts out most light is also important. I'm not at all a fan of baseball caps - some specially made peaked caps are good, and its important that the hat has a dark underside to the brim...
Read the complete fishing article
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Fishing tip: Short Range Fly Casting for trout
(This is a great article I found that I wanted to share with all my readers - a visit to the full article is recommended.)
When it comes to fly fishing for trout most people seem very happy when they are casting around the 12-15m mark. What happens when the fish are closer?
Short range fly casting is an essential part of a fly fisher's repertoire however; it seems this is an area most people get into trouble. Why?
First let's look at the rod loading. To load your fly rod for any given amount of line requires a varied rod arc according to the amount of fly line off the tip of the rod. Simply put, "the shorter the amount of line the shorter the rod arc".
If you "do less work you will achieve more"
The old adage of ten and two will apply for a given amount of fly line but definitely not all scenarios. This variation is also dictated by the design of your rod and the particular fly line you are using.
A cast of 10 metres (approx. 30ft) when using a 2.7m (9ft) rod and a standard length leader of 2.7m (9ft) then only requires 4.6m of fly line, roughly one & a half rod lengths. In this case try a much shorter back cast stroke and then push the rod tip out to above your target. Remember not to direct the rod to the water or your fly line will crash, aim above the water!.....