Saturday, November 26, 2011
Fishing Techniques
Catching fish depends on many factors – where and when you're fishing, the time of day, the season and weather, your experience level and your equipment. While anyone can wet a line and eventually get a bite, learning some basics about fishing technique will greatly increase your chances. You can have the best fishing rod and reel in your hands, but unless you know how to rig your tackle, how to cast, and work your lure or bait in the specific waters your fishing, at the end of the day, you'll just have a nice rod and reel in your hands.
To learn more about the specific techniques listed below, just follow the links.
Saltwater. Learn more about the various kinds of saltwater fishing and techniques.
Bait Casting. An acquired skill that takes some practice to master.
Spin Casting. An ideal method for beginners.
Fly Fishing. A world of fishing – some might say a way of life – unto itself.
Still Fishing. A versatile way to fish that rewards the patient angler.
Drift Fishing. Experience a variety of habitats from your boat.
Live Lining. Know how to play the currents for a successful day of fishing.
Chumming. Here's an idea: get the fish to come to you.
Bottom Bouncing. For a great fishing experience, start at the bottom.
Using a Trolling Motor. Play your cards right and the fish will follow you anywhere.
Jigging. How good are you at recreating the action of what fish feed on?
Jig and Worm. Master these techniques for even more fishing fun.
Ice Fishing. Go hard-core or cozy. Either way, it's a great challenge.
Fishing From Boats
Big or small, motorized or outfitted with paddles, a boat simply allows you to cover more water. But for most folks, a boat simply makes fishing a lot more fun. The boat you choose should be based on where you want to fish and what kind of fish you're after. Some boats are better on rivers, streams and ponds. And some are best used on large bodies of water. Choose your boat wisely and follow the rules.
Know your boat and how to handle it.
The water you're in contains hazards such as submerged trees and rocks.
Watch the weather conditions and follow emergency procedures.
Always carry safety devices and know how to use them.
The boat operator is legally responsible for the boat and the safety of those on board.
Understand the rules of navigation, the courtesies of safe boating and always complete a boater safety course prior to operating a boat for the first time.
Learn more about different types of boats and boating in our Boating section.
Catch and Release
Whatever technique you use, you should understand the importance of catch and release. It was first introduced in Michigan in 1952 as a way to reduce the cost of stocking hatchery-raised trout. Since then, conservationists and sport fishermen alike have promoted catch and release to ensure sustainability and avoid over fishing. Proper catch and release also reduces fish fighting and handling times and helps avoid damage to fish skin, scales and slime layers— damage that can leave fish vulnerable to fungal skin infections.
Here are some simple rules.
Don't keep a fish out of water longer than you can hold your breath.
Handle a fish with your bare hands rather than with gloves or a rag. Check with your state Department of Natural Resources regarding how to handle fish.
Never tear a hook out of the fish. Make or purchase an efficient hook remover.
If a fish loses consciousness, try to revive it by gently moving it forward and backward so water moves through its gills.
When the fish begins to struggle and can swim, let it go.
Get more information on landing a fish.
PowerPro Braided Line And New Lures
Most people choose color based on personal preferences, but for fishermen, color is a necessity. Each application requires a specific color line. Anglers decide on the color lure they will throw, and should also be selective with the color of line to use in each application.
All colors available in these (LB) Sizes: 5lb, 8lb, 10lb, 15lb, 20lb, 30lb, 40lb, 50lb, 65lb, 80lb, 100lb, 150lb, 200lb, 250lb
Spool Sizes: 100yd, 150yd, 300yd, 500yd,1500yd, 3000yd
Spool directly from the box
Built-in cutter
Package protects the remaining line
Arbor tape included
The new Stinger Butterfly Whirligig is as what its name implies; a jig that whirls around in a circular motion when you jig it. An ingenious offset cut gives this jig the action identical to an injured baitfish in its death spiral. It is a particular deadly jig to use when there are schools of baitfish with bigger predators around that are picking on the stray and injured fish.
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
Saltwater Conventional Reels
Daiwa:
Saltwater Conventional Reels
NEW Saltiga® Lever Drag 2-Speed
NEW Saltiga® Hyper Speed Lever Drag
Saltiga®
Saltiga® Surf
Saltist® Lever Drag 2-Speed Big Game
Saltist® Lever Drag Single Speed Big Game Reels
Saltist® Lever Drag 2-Speed Conventional
NEW Saltist® Lever Drag Hyper Speed
Saltist® Lever Drag Single Speed Conventional
NEW Saltist® BG Star Drag
Saltist™ Levelwind
Saltist® Levelwind Line Counter
Sealine® 400HW Wireline Trolling
Sealine®-X HA/SHA
Sealine® SL-H
Sealine®
Saltwater Casting
Team Daiwa Pluton
Team Daiwa® Luna™
TD Zillion™ Coastal 7.3
Coastal Inshore™
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Fish Profiles
Saltwater Fish
Barracuda
Common Name: Barracuda
Other Names: Couta, Giant Pike
Scientific Name: Sphyraena Barracuda
Habitat: This species wonders between reefs. They occur in shoals, with the occasional solitary individual. Juveniles found on shallow flats.
Distribution: Indian Ocean, reefs
Bait: Barracuda eat a variety of fish. Large barracudas herd shoals of fish into shallow water where they then gorge themselves.
Fishing Strategy: The Great barracuda is the largest of the barracudas and is normally found in shoals, but loners can be found around reefs. The teeth of these fish are long and sharp which they use to tear into flesh so the use of a wire trace is essential.
Eating Quality: Barracuda are normally caught for the fight and then returned.
Tackle :
Wire trace is essential
10 - 16kg line
Sturdy Rod
Wahoo
Common Name: Wahoo
Other Names: Ono, Oahu fish, Pacific kingfish, Ocean barracuda
Scientific Name: Acanthocybium solandri
Habitat: Wahoo can be found near reefs where warm currents run close inshore.
Also found in the open ocean around bait fish.
Distribution: Found in various parts of the world
Bait: Wahoo feed on other fishes, as well as such as anchovies, small tuna and even squid.
Fishing Strategy: The Wahoo is a powerful gamefish which inhabits off shore coral or rocky reefs. Wahoo prey on fish, small tuna, kingfish and flying fish even squid. This powerful game fish is often targeted by fly fisherman, as it is one of those species can be teased to the surface using a hook.
Tackle:
Poppers and slammer can be used
Wire trace is a must
Trolling lures or live mullet
Strong rod
Barracuda
Common Name: Barracuda
Other Names: Couta, Giant Pike
Scientific Name: Sphyraena Barracuda
Habitat: This species wonders between reefs. They occur in shoals, with the occasional solitary individual. Juveniles found on shallow flats.
Distribution: Indian Ocean, reefs
Bait: Barracuda eat a variety of fish. Large barracudas herd shoals of fish into shallow water where they then gorge themselves.
Fishing Strategy: The Great barracuda is the largest of the barracudas and is normally found in shoals, but loners can be found around reefs. The teeth of these fish are long and sharp which they use to tear into flesh so the use of a wire trace is essential.
Eating Quality: Barracuda are normally caught for the fight and then returned.
Tackle :
Wire trace is essential
10 - 16kg line
Sturdy Rod
Wahoo
Common Name: Wahoo
Other Names: Ono, Oahu fish, Pacific kingfish, Ocean barracuda
Scientific Name: Acanthocybium solandri
Habitat: Wahoo can be found near reefs where warm currents run close inshore.
Also found in the open ocean around bait fish.
Distribution: Found in various parts of the world
Bait: Wahoo feed on other fishes, as well as such as anchovies, small tuna and even squid.
Fishing Strategy: The Wahoo is a powerful gamefish which inhabits off shore coral or rocky reefs. Wahoo prey on fish, small tuna, kingfish and flying fish even squid. This powerful game fish is often targeted by fly fisherman, as it is one of those species can be teased to the surface using a hook.
Tackle:
Poppers and slammer can be used
Wire trace is a must
Trolling lures or live mullet
Strong rod
Sunday, February 20, 2011
What is Fishing Bait?
There is such an assortment of bait that it is difficult to recommend any particular color, size, or type as the best. There are more than a thousand good baits on the market. All will catch fish at some time or another.
Fishing baits usually weigh from ¼ to an ounce to three ounces. The most popular weight preferred by the majority of bait casters is the 5/8-ounce bait, while the average is between ½ and 3 quarters of an ounce. Baits can either be used as a whole or cut into chunks. Anglers can also use dead or live baits.
The Different Types of Bait
There is a wide array of organisms being used as fishing baits. Among the different types used in fishing, the commonly used are the small fishes. These consist of widely used fishing baits such as herring, anchovies, menhaden, and some others that are inborn to certain local waters. Larger fishes are usually used as chunk baits.
Fishing baits can be used whole, chunk, and strips, based on the activities of the type of fishes being chased. The size of the fishing bait is usually well matched with the size of the fish being hunted. Other common organisms used for bait fishing are crabs, worms, shrimps, crabs, clams, sand fleas, eels, and squid. Among all of the organisms mentioned, the crabs and the shrimps are the well-liked organisms to be used as fishing baits.
Shrimp are favorably used as fishing bait and are considered to be very valuable bait for a huge number of saltwater fish, especially those that are considered “inshore fish” like redfish, speckled trout, shook, and a lot more.
Whereas, various crab species, especially the fiddler crab, sand flea, and the blue crab, are perfect fishing baits for many varieties of “inshore fishes” and “bottom fish.” These crabs are usually clasped through their shell, usually on either the right or left of the head.
How to Acquire Fishing Bait?
Fishermen can acquire fishing bait either buying them in bait shops or simply by capturing it themselves.
The advantage of buying fishing bait is convenience, while catching live fishing bait is less expensive and can be more effective in luring fish. Digging for earthworms is another activity. Earthworms make an excellent bait.
Indeed, when it comes to bait fishing, using the proper fishing bait are important and imperative to the success of fishing. Hence, anglers should know the basics of choosing fishing baits in order to save time and money.
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Fishing with the Right Line
There will always be challenges whether one decides to fish either in the river or in the open sea. The important thing to remember is to have patience waiting for the fish and doing the best to catch it when it appears.
To be able to fish, a person would need to get a fishing license since this is requirement by law and the regulations regarding fishing varies from one state to the other.
Getting the right equipment for fishing is also an important factor in making that experience a memorable one. Using the wrong kind of fishing line or one that is made of poor quality will cause many problems such as tangles and lost fish.
There are 4 kinds available in the market. These are monofilament, braided, fused and fluororcarbon.
The Monofilament fishing line is the most popular of the four since it has been around for a very long time. It also works well in different fishing conditions. The problem with this line is that it has “memory.” This means that it has a tendency to keep to a certain shape if stored for some time. If a person does not fish often, it is best to purchase a line that is not very long and it is advisable to change it every time one goes out fishing.
Braided fishing lines are the strongest of the 4 available. These lines don’t stretch and are quite easy to see since the woven nature of the line makes it float. The bad part about this line is also about its strength that causes abrasions on other things like one’s hands, the fishing rod and the line that guides the reel. As such, one should have the right hardware around when using it.
Fused fishing lines are similar to braided fishing lines. The only difference is in the manufacturing process where fused lines are glued together with a coating applied over it instead of woven. This makes fused fishing lines share some of the difficulties with braided fishing lines such as making it difficult to cut without a sharp knife or scissors, its tendency to slide around a bit on the reel spool and its visibility to fish which will make catching fish a bit challenging.
Fluorocarbon fishing lines are getting more popular these days since fish are not able to see it in the water.
Friday, February 18, 2011
Best Lures to Use In Fishing
The evolution of fishing gear and accessories along with the development of the bass fishing industry brought about the development of various lures specifically used for different fish species.
There are many types or class of lures and they all depend on what type of fish works for them. Many only work for specific types but some cover a wide range of species of fish.
Below are some of the typical lures used for fishing.
Light Standard Casting Lures
For Standard casting lures, they are mostly able to attract a wide range of fish varieties from albacore, bluefish, bonita, oho and crappies. These lures are also excellent for certain species of bass fish and work best when retrieved from water at low to medium speed. They pass through water with undetectably synthetic material.
Their sizes are excellent for lightweight fish and a host of freshwater species. They range from 1/16 oz. to 3 oz.
The hand painted eye is enticing enough to allow schooling of fish. This feature allows for more chances of trapping one of the target fish in the water.
Heavy Standard Casting Lures
Heavy Standard Casting Lures are excellent for quite heavy fish specifically, walleye and bass. While the lightweight lures are used in most circumstances, it was shown that heavy counterparts provide more reliable fishing output.
Moreover, the heavy standard lures are able to catch fish than diamond and light standard casting lures.
Long Casting/Jigging Lures
Perhaps the most popular among the fishing lures are the long, tapered jigging lures. They are perhaps the most commonly used fishing lures among the fishermen in Florida, Mississippi and Louisiana.
Just recently, it was found out that the long casting lures work best for catching trout and pike. They were also found to effectively catch stripers and bluefish. They can catch tuna and walleye in a breeze!
Unlike heavy standard lures, this gear won’t produce good fish-catch output up to 180-200 ft under water but be sure to effectively match your lure color, bait and related accessories to maximize performance.
Deadly Diamond Lures
These lures are one of the smallest with sizes ranging from 1/8 to 1oz. They can seamlessly attract attention among fish and could form a school of fish in a minute!
The reason is it lies on its structural surface formation and cut. The top handle is cut like a diamond and causes the reflection of light striking on its surface. The diamond lures are best for catching bass fish varieties, crappie and stripers although they work on a small range of fish species.
There are many types or class of lures and they all depend on what type of fish works for them. Many only work for specific types but some cover a wide range of species of fish.
Below are some of the typical lures used for fishing.
Light Standard Casting Lures
For Standard casting lures, they are mostly able to attract a wide range of fish varieties from albacore, bluefish, bonita, oho and crappies. These lures are also excellent for certain species of bass fish and work best when retrieved from water at low to medium speed. They pass through water with undetectably synthetic material.
Their sizes are excellent for lightweight fish and a host of freshwater species. They range from 1/16 oz. to 3 oz.
The hand painted eye is enticing enough to allow schooling of fish. This feature allows for more chances of trapping one of the target fish in the water.
Heavy Standard Casting Lures
Heavy Standard Casting Lures are excellent for quite heavy fish specifically, walleye and bass. While the lightweight lures are used in most circumstances, it was shown that heavy counterparts provide more reliable fishing output.
Moreover, the heavy standard lures are able to catch fish than diamond and light standard casting lures.
Long Casting/Jigging Lures
Perhaps the most popular among the fishing lures are the long, tapered jigging lures. They are perhaps the most commonly used fishing lures among the fishermen in Florida, Mississippi and Louisiana.
Just recently, it was found out that the long casting lures work best for catching trout and pike. They were also found to effectively catch stripers and bluefish. They can catch tuna and walleye in a breeze!
Unlike heavy standard lures, this gear won’t produce good fish-catch output up to 180-200 ft under water but be sure to effectively match your lure color, bait and related accessories to maximize performance.
Deadly Diamond Lures
These lures are one of the smallest with sizes ranging from 1/8 to 1oz. They can seamlessly attract attention among fish and could form a school of fish in a minute!
The reason is it lies on its structural surface formation and cut. The top handle is cut like a diamond and causes the reflection of light striking on its surface. The diamond lures are best for catching bass fish varieties, crappie and stripers although they work on a small range of fish species.
Monday, February 14, 2011
How To Hook Up With The "Fall Speedsters"
During late summer and early fall, the inshore and near shore waters become inundated with what many people refer to as the "Fall Speedsters". I think of them as miniature "torpedoes". Oceanic Bonito, Green Bonito, False Albacore and Spanish Mackerel come in close to the shore in a feeding frenzy supported by vast amounts of small baitfish. These speedy strong fish are capable of runs that can put a bonefish to shame and they will test the endurance of the angler and his tackle to the maximum limit.
This year is no exception as the waters are loaded with bait and busting schools of these fine gamefish are a common sight. The problem many anglers have with this
fishery is that being related to the tuna family these fish have extremely keen eyesight and are extremely line shy. As a result, hooking up with these fish is difficult if not impossible with typical tackle that might be used to catch other species such as bluefish. In addition, approaching a feeding school is a difficult proposition as their senses are extremely keen and they are capable of moving in any direction at great speed.
How can one expect to be successful in catching such great fish? The answer is actually a combination of things that must all happen at one time. To narrow it down I will reduce it to two things; "Tackle" and "Stalking."
Tackle requires two very important considerations. It must be top quality and terminal gear must be almost invisible. Weather it be light or medium spinning or fly tackle, rods, reels and line must all be in perfect shape. When you do hook up, you can expect a blistering run of up to 100 yards and sometimes more. A bad guide, chaffed line or rough drag will result in an instant break-off. All tackle must be working properly and knots perfectly tied.
I have had great success with spinning gear using a Penn Power Graph rod #PG 5871A teamed up with a Penn Prion #PR2400 reel loaded with #10 or #12 Berkley XL monofilament line. This outfit gives me the casting range, extremely smooth drag and the power needed to subdue these magnificent fish.
The terminal tackle of course is most important for without an effective life-like presentation that will produce a strike the rest of the system would be meaningless. In this case stealth is most important. Fluorocarbon leader material is the heart of the system. At the end of my running line from the reel I tie a very small barrel swivel. I use a "Trilene" knot for all connections. To the other side of the barrel swivel I attach a 15 inch piece of #10 fluorocarbon leader material. I then tie the fluorocarbon leader directly to the lure. My favorite lure is a blue-silver "Crippled Herring" in ½ or ¾ oz. size. This system will not fail to produce a strike if it comes within sight of the fish.
When fly-fishing I am using a Penn International #1090 SPT Graphite rod (9 foot, 10 weight) mated with a Penn 2.5 reel. I am loading it up with as much 30 lb. backing as I can get on the reel and finishing it off with a "Rio Products" intermediate #20250 Tarpon fly line. I hand tie the tapered butt section of the leader keeping it at about 6 feet and add a 15 inch tippet section of #10 fluorocarbon leader with my fly tied directly to the fluorocarbon with a "Trilene" knot. My preferred fly pattern is an olive/white "Clouser Minnow" in 1/0 or 2/0 size. This setup is deadly with just about anything that swims in these waters and does especially well with these tough and wary fish.
With the proper tackle in order, the "Stalk" is the next most important consideration. These fish could never be approached if they were not busily feeding. When they are whipping the water into a froth in a feeding frenzy, they are preoccupied with the chase and can be approached if one is careful. Excessive noise will definitely put the fish down.
The best method is to observe the direction in which the feeding school is moving and set up the boat in the direction they are heading. Move slowly into position and get the rods at ready to make a quick and accurate cast just in front of the moving school. When the lure hits the water let it sink for just a second and make a steady rapid retrieve while holding the tip of the rod near the surface of the water. When fly-fishing I retrieve with a few rapid strips followed by a short pause then more rapid strips. I also keep the rod tip pointed right at the fly with tip at the surface of the water. Do not try to strike the fish with the rod. The constant rapid retrieve with spinning gear and a "strip strike" with fly gear will most effectively set the hook. I have found these techniques to be most effective. I have also found it necessary on most occasions to shut down all sonar recorders. The underwater "pinging" sound they make can spook the fish.
On certain days the fish are very erratic making the "line them up" method previously described very frustrating. In this case a chase will often work. Invariable there are terns or gulls following the schools of fish, waiting for the opportunity to dive in for an easy meal when they chase the bait to the surface. If you watch the birds carefully, you can determine where an unseen underwater school is located. Follow the birds so that you will be close when the fish come to the surface or even blind cast to where you think the school is swimming. All anglers should be ready to make their casts immediately when the opportunity presents itself. When the fish show on the surface, hopefully fairly close to the boat, quickly turn the boat in their direction, take it out of gear, shut down the motor and silently coast in their direction. If the school stays on top long enough you should have a shot at getting the lures in the strike zone.
When all of this comes together you will certainly hook up with these miniature "torpedoes" of the sea. When you do, you will never forget the excitement of that moment and I guarantee that you will become a devotee of this game.
This year is no exception as the waters are loaded with bait and busting schools of these fine gamefish are a common sight. The problem many anglers have with this
fishery is that being related to the tuna family these fish have extremely keen eyesight and are extremely line shy. As a result, hooking up with these fish is difficult if not impossible with typical tackle that might be used to catch other species such as bluefish. In addition, approaching a feeding school is a difficult proposition as their senses are extremely keen and they are capable of moving in any direction at great speed.
How can one expect to be successful in catching such great fish? The answer is actually a combination of things that must all happen at one time. To narrow it down I will reduce it to two things; "Tackle" and "Stalking."
Tackle requires two very important considerations. It must be top quality and terminal gear must be almost invisible. Weather it be light or medium spinning or fly tackle, rods, reels and line must all be in perfect shape. When you do hook up, you can expect a blistering run of up to 100 yards and sometimes more. A bad guide, chaffed line or rough drag will result in an instant break-off. All tackle must be working properly and knots perfectly tied.
I have had great success with spinning gear using a Penn Power Graph rod #PG 5871A teamed up with a Penn Prion #PR2400 reel loaded with #10 or #12 Berkley XL monofilament line. This outfit gives me the casting range, extremely smooth drag and the power needed to subdue these magnificent fish.
The terminal tackle of course is most important for without an effective life-like presentation that will produce a strike the rest of the system would be meaningless. In this case stealth is most important. Fluorocarbon leader material is the heart of the system. At the end of my running line from the reel I tie a very small barrel swivel. I use a "Trilene" knot for all connections. To the other side of the barrel swivel I attach a 15 inch piece of #10 fluorocarbon leader material. I then tie the fluorocarbon leader directly to the lure. My favorite lure is a blue-silver "Crippled Herring" in ½ or ¾ oz. size. This system will not fail to produce a strike if it comes within sight of the fish.
When fly-fishing I am using a Penn International #1090 SPT Graphite rod (9 foot, 10 weight) mated with a Penn 2.5 reel. I am loading it up with as much 30 lb. backing as I can get on the reel and finishing it off with a "Rio Products" intermediate #20250 Tarpon fly line. I hand tie the tapered butt section of the leader keeping it at about 6 feet and add a 15 inch tippet section of #10 fluorocarbon leader with my fly tied directly to the fluorocarbon with a "Trilene" knot. My preferred fly pattern is an olive/white "Clouser Minnow" in 1/0 or 2/0 size. This setup is deadly with just about anything that swims in these waters and does especially well with these tough and wary fish.
With the proper tackle in order, the "Stalk" is the next most important consideration. These fish could never be approached if they were not busily feeding. When they are whipping the water into a froth in a feeding frenzy, they are preoccupied with the chase and can be approached if one is careful. Excessive noise will definitely put the fish down.
The best method is to observe the direction in which the feeding school is moving and set up the boat in the direction they are heading. Move slowly into position and get the rods at ready to make a quick and accurate cast just in front of the moving school. When the lure hits the water let it sink for just a second and make a steady rapid retrieve while holding the tip of the rod near the surface of the water. When fly-fishing I retrieve with a few rapid strips followed by a short pause then more rapid strips. I also keep the rod tip pointed right at the fly with tip at the surface of the water. Do not try to strike the fish with the rod. The constant rapid retrieve with spinning gear and a "strip strike" with fly gear will most effectively set the hook. I have found these techniques to be most effective. I have also found it necessary on most occasions to shut down all sonar recorders. The underwater "pinging" sound they make can spook the fish.
On certain days the fish are very erratic making the "line them up" method previously described very frustrating. In this case a chase will often work. Invariable there are terns or gulls following the schools of fish, waiting for the opportunity to dive in for an easy meal when they chase the bait to the surface. If you watch the birds carefully, you can determine where an unseen underwater school is located. Follow the birds so that you will be close when the fish come to the surface or even blind cast to where you think the school is swimming. All anglers should be ready to make their casts immediately when the opportunity presents itself. When the fish show on the surface, hopefully fairly close to the boat, quickly turn the boat in their direction, take it out of gear, shut down the motor and silently coast in their direction. If the school stays on top long enough you should have a shot at getting the lures in the strike zone.
When all of this comes together you will certainly hook up with these miniature "torpedoes" of the sea. When you do, you will never forget the excitement of that moment and I guarantee that you will become a devotee of this game.
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Live Bait - The Terminal End
Taken out of context, this title may seem redundant. To a fisherman however, it has a special
meaning. There are really two ends to a fishing line. One end is fixed to the reel, rod, and the anxious fisherman. The other end, the terminal end, is the one that is supposed to catch the fish. The terminal end however, will not catch fish unless it has some sort of hook, lure, bait, etc.. These additions are referred to as terminal tackle. The "terminal end" is most important to the fisherman but is often overlooked! Regardless of the investment in boats, rods, reels, time or effort, if terminal tackle is not appropriate to the job at hand, then all of that investment is wasted.
Live-bait fishing for trophy stripers is one of my favorite kinds of fishing. I have specialized in this type of fishing for many years. I have had the opportunity to try all types of tackle and terminal gear. In the course of this investigation I have had many successes and failures, all of which have led me to the combination that works most effectively. This is a natural process, and I am sure that I will continue to experiment to try to improve or adapt to changes as they come. When live-bait fishing, a well balanced, quality rod and reel is an important consideration. I am using a Penn Power Stick, with a Penn 535 graphite Reel, spooled with 25lb Ande line. This combination is light and sporting and yet powerful enough for the biggest of bass. One very important rule I believe in firmly is, "SIMPLE RIG-SHARP HOOK!". What does this mean when it comes to live-bait fishing? It means that the bait itself attracts the fish. Anything else that may distract the attention of the fish will reduce the chance for a pick-up and a hook-up! Keep the rig as basic as possible and always check and sharpen your hooks when necessary.
I do most of my live-bait fishing around the Fire Island Inlet on Long Island in New York. I use a very simple but effective terminal rig. I clinch knot a 3oz. drail to my 25lb line. I tie a double surgeon’s loop at one end of a four foot leader of 50lb mono and clip it to the snap swivel at the trailing end of the drail. I clinch knot the leader to a 6/0 - 8/0 live bait style hook and the rig is complete. The loop at the drail end of the leader allows for a quick replacement when necessary. The only variation to this rig might be an increase or a decrease in drail weight to match the current conditions and water depth. The change that might be required in drail weight is a simple one to accomplish. Simply go up or down by one ounce increments until just enough weight is present to maintain the bait within a few feet of the bottom. If you can lift the rod tip then quickly drop it and feel the drail touch bottom, the weight is sufficient. The most common baits used in live-bait fishing for striped bass are bunker and eels. When fishing eels I use only one type of hook in all situations, a short shank live bait style hook in 6/0 or 7/0 size. These hooks are very strong and usually quite sharp right out of the package. Don’t forget to check the point and put a file to it if it isn’t needle sharp. To hook the eel, the hook is run into the mouth and out an eye socket. This placement of the hook gives it a sure hold in tough tissue and also allows the eel to continue to pass water through its mouth and stay healthy and lively.
Fishing live bunker or any other live, hard bodied baitfish, requires more consideration. In the past, most anglers fished bunker using a 4/0 size treble hook. One point was inserted through the lower jaw, a second point through one nostril and the third remained unattached. This method is no longer acceptable as it results in many gut hooked fish that will not survive when released. A treble hook is almost impossible to remove cleanly once it has been swallowed beyond the narrow throat. In these memorable days of a revived striped bass fishery with size and bag limits, many bass must be returned to the water so that they may survive! The use of treble hooks is therefore not in the best interest of the sport. Considering an alternative to using treble hooks, I tried experimenting with single hook arrangements. I found that when hooked in any body part other than the head, the bait did not swim correctly in a hard running tide. I was not getting many pick-ups due to its unnatural action. I then tried hooking the bait in a non-vital part of the head. The action improved, and I was getting lots of pick-ups. However, due to the tough tissue in the head region of most baitfish, the hook would not pull free from the bait. I was getting pick-ups but pulling the hook on most fish.
Being determined I finally came up with a variation that has proven to work extremely well. I use a large #56 Berkley double-lock snap. I attach the small side of the snap to the eye of a single 7/0 or 8/0 live bait hook. This must be done in an orientation that sets the open large side of the snap turning opposite to the bend in the hook. I then use the hook or a needle to make a small hole in the tough head or nose tissue of the baitfish. The point of the large side of the snap is then passed from the top of the head or nose, through the hole, out the mouth and snapped closed. The hook remains free swinging along the side of the head. Fish caught with this rig are almost always mouth hooked meaning they may be released relatively unharmed. One additional hook arrangement should also be a part of the live-bait fisherman’s arsenal. Big bluefish have a nasty habit of attacking a bait from the tail and are therefore rarely hooked. Even if they do manage to get hooked, they almost always chew through the mono leader and are lost during the fight. For such situations I have devised another little addition to my tackle box. I prepare tail hooks on a short piece of vinyl coated braided or single strand wire. I make them about six inches long with a barrel swivel at one end and a 7/0 hook at the other end. If the bluefish show up I can quickly add the tail hook to my double-lock snap and use a rubber band to fasten the hook to the tail of the bait. I can then have fun catching and beating the bluefish at their game.
One additional point to consider for the safe release of fish in the spirit of conservation or when tagging, gaffing a fish that is going to be released is not acceptable! Fish that are to be released should be carefully netted and handled gently while onboard. Even netting is detrimental to the fish as it removes some of the natural protective slime from the body. When it is possible I use a device called a "BogaGrip" that locks onto the jaw of the fish. I simply lean over the side of the boat while holding the leader and lock it on the lower jaw. I can then remove the hook while the fish is still in the water or gently bring it aboard. It works quite well and it also has a built-in accurate scale for weighing your trophy. If the fish is brought into the boat, a wet towel placed over the head and eyes will keep it calm. Remember to return the fish to the water as soon as possible and not to handle it by the gills. Placing your hand in the gill slits can cause irreparable damage to the fish.
The "terminal end" is a critical part of fishing tackle. I have spent much time developing and perfecting terminal rigs that are effective. I have found this both challenging and rewarding. Experimenting and being innovative is part of what makes fishing so much fun! I hope my suggestions will work well for you.
Good Fishing, Capt. Al Lorenzetti Copyright: Al Lorenzetti ©1990 Published in "The Fisherman" 1990
Live-bait fishing for trophy stripers is one of my favorite kinds of fishing. I have specialized in this type of fishing for many years. I have had the opportunity to try all types of tackle and terminal gear. In the course of this investigation I have had many successes and failures, all of which have led me to the combination that works most effectively. This is a natural process, and I am sure that I will continue to experiment to try to improve or adapt to changes as they come. When live-bait fishing, a well balanced, quality rod and reel is an important consideration. I am using a Penn Power Stick, with a Penn 535 graphite Reel, spooled with 25lb Ande line. This combination is light and sporting and yet powerful enough for the biggest of bass. One very important rule I believe in firmly is, "SIMPLE RIG-SHARP HOOK!". What does this mean when it comes to live-bait fishing? It means that the bait itself attracts the fish. Anything else that may distract the attention of the fish will reduce the chance for a pick-up and a hook-up! Keep the rig as basic as possible and always check and sharpen your hooks when necessary.
I do most of my live-bait fishing around the Fire Island Inlet on Long Island in New York. I use a very simple but effective terminal rig. I clinch knot a 3oz. drail to my 25lb line. I tie a double surgeon’s loop at one end of a four foot leader of 50lb mono and clip it to the snap swivel at the trailing end of the drail. I clinch knot the leader to a 6/0 - 8/0 live bait style hook and the rig is complete. The loop at the drail end of the leader allows for a quick replacement when necessary. The only variation to this rig might be an increase or a decrease in drail weight to match the current conditions and water depth. The change that might be required in drail weight is a simple one to accomplish. Simply go up or down by one ounce increments until just enough weight is present to maintain the bait within a few feet of the bottom. If you can lift the rod tip then quickly drop it and feel the drail touch bottom, the weight is sufficient. The most common baits used in live-bait fishing for striped bass are bunker and eels. When fishing eels I use only one type of hook in all situations, a short shank live bait style hook in 6/0 or 7/0 size. These hooks are very strong and usually quite sharp right out of the package. Don’t forget to check the point and put a file to it if it isn’t needle sharp. To hook the eel, the hook is run into the mouth and out an eye socket. This placement of the hook gives it a sure hold in tough tissue and also allows the eel to continue to pass water through its mouth and stay healthy and lively.
Fishing live bunker or any other live, hard bodied baitfish, requires more consideration. In the past, most anglers fished bunker using a 4/0 size treble hook. One point was inserted through the lower jaw, a second point through one nostril and the third remained unattached. This method is no longer acceptable as it results in many gut hooked fish that will not survive when released. A treble hook is almost impossible to remove cleanly once it has been swallowed beyond the narrow throat. In these memorable days of a revived striped bass fishery with size and bag limits, many bass must be returned to the water so that they may survive! The use of treble hooks is therefore not in the best interest of the sport. Considering an alternative to using treble hooks, I tried experimenting with single hook arrangements. I found that when hooked in any body part other than the head, the bait did not swim correctly in a hard running tide. I was not getting many pick-ups due to its unnatural action. I then tried hooking the bait in a non-vital part of the head. The action improved, and I was getting lots of pick-ups. However, due to the tough tissue in the head region of most baitfish, the hook would not pull free from the bait. I was getting pick-ups but pulling the hook on most fish.
Being determined I finally came up with a variation that has proven to work extremely well. I use a large #56 Berkley double-lock snap. I attach the small side of the snap to the eye of a single 7/0 or 8/0 live bait hook. This must be done in an orientation that sets the open large side of the snap turning opposite to the bend in the hook. I then use the hook or a needle to make a small hole in the tough head or nose tissue of the baitfish. The point of the large side of the snap is then passed from the top of the head or nose, through the hole, out the mouth and snapped closed. The hook remains free swinging along the side of the head. Fish caught with this rig are almost always mouth hooked meaning they may be released relatively unharmed. One additional hook arrangement should also be a part of the live-bait fisherman’s arsenal. Big bluefish have a nasty habit of attacking a bait from the tail and are therefore rarely hooked. Even if they do manage to get hooked, they almost always chew through the mono leader and are lost during the fight. For such situations I have devised another little addition to my tackle box. I prepare tail hooks on a short piece of vinyl coated braided or single strand wire. I make them about six inches long with a barrel swivel at one end and a 7/0 hook at the other end. If the bluefish show up I can quickly add the tail hook to my double-lock snap and use a rubber band to fasten the hook to the tail of the bait. I can then have fun catching and beating the bluefish at their game.
One additional point to consider for the safe release of fish in the spirit of conservation or when tagging, gaffing a fish that is going to be released is not acceptable! Fish that are to be released should be carefully netted and handled gently while onboard. Even netting is detrimental to the fish as it removes some of the natural protective slime from the body. When it is possible I use a device called a "BogaGrip" that locks onto the jaw of the fish. I simply lean over the side of the boat while holding the leader and lock it on the lower jaw. I can then remove the hook while the fish is still in the water or gently bring it aboard. It works quite well and it also has a built-in accurate scale for weighing your trophy. If the fish is brought into the boat, a wet towel placed over the head and eyes will keep it calm. Remember to return the fish to the water as soon as possible and not to handle it by the gills. Placing your hand in the gill slits can cause irreparable damage to the fish.
The "terminal end" is a critical part of fishing tackle. I have spent much time developing and perfecting terminal rigs that are effective. I have found this both challenging and rewarding. Experimenting and being innovative is part of what makes fishing so much fun! I hope my suggestions will work well for you.
Good Fishing, Capt. Al Lorenzetti Copyright: Al Lorenzetti ©1990 Published in "The Fisherman" 1990
Saturday, February 12, 2011
Rapala-Ultra Lite Kit
More world record fish have been caught with Rapala lures than any other in the world. Any other! That includes a world record on every continent in the world except Antarctica. Rapala holds the world record for world records.
The Rapala Pro Staff anglers have hand-picked this exclusive combination of Rapala lures, perfect when ultra-lite angling for any species of gamefish. A special bonus of a Rapala Knot Decal and a Rapala Lure Key Ring are included.
SPECIFICATIONS
Model Number- Item Description
ULKT1 -Ultra Lite Kit
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